My touchstone, the Jefferson Pools

I drove to Louisville and back this past week to see my dear mama. The trip out on I-64 was through blinding snow and I had a great page-turner of a book on CD. Coming home was more monotonous and I was inspired to visit Warm Springs and take the waters at the Jefferson Pools.

The Ladies' Pool

I've been there many times for the immersion in the carbonated, sulfurous water, the history and the serenity. There are two bath houses, one for gentlemen and one for ladies. Naturally the men's house was built first and yes, Thomas Jefferson took those waters. It was quite the destination for city folks who would travel to Warm Springs annually as a part of the social circuit. Now it's more of a quaint oddity, but well-managed by The Homestead, who now owns the properties. Of course, the price of admission has increased from $5 to $17, but it's still worth it. You get a nice towel from the lady who has tended the pools for decades.

Occulus, with many gaps in old roof

Interior

The buildings haven't been modified in a long time - not even painted. Each of the two round frame buildings has dressing rooms on the internal perimeter of its pool. Large river stones cover the bottom and the only nod to the present are the bright foam noodles which keep the users afloat. The buildings have lots of gaps and holes with a large occulus in the top, open to the sky. Floating in the 98 degree water, gazing at the timeless structure and through the roof with blue sky and occasional passing hawks grounds me in Virginia with a rootedness that no spa can match. Early 19th century immersion therapy.

There's no heat of course, so it's quite chilly to be out of the water. During the winter months, The Homestead only operates one pool and it's co-ed. Yesterday, I floated in the gentlemen's pool for the first time. It was also the first time I wore clothes. Options are open for either one's own bathing suit, one's birthday suit or a timeless, handmade romper sewn for the more modest, one-size-fits-all visitor. Co-ed bathing removes the most fundamental option and also, apparently, the encouragement to be quiet. It was a bit like a cocktail party atmosphere, but with my ears below the water the sound was muffled and i could focus on places where the bubbles were most plentiful from the bottom.

Suzanne in her dressing room, in a rick-rack trimmed romper

Since the water is continually bubbling up from the spring, there is a runoff room to one side. The ancient steps are covered with astroturf and there's a rope to hold onto while you lean to allow the rushing water to massage your back. It's also where I have many times rinsed off after returning from a West Virginia backpacking trip, dirty and sore. Time was, I could shampoo my hair there, but I haven't seen small bottles of Homestead shampoo down there for several years.  Dimly lit and roaring, the runoff room seems like it could be slimy and possibly inhabited by critters. It's not for everyone, which leaves more room for those who want the entire nuanced experience.

Historic hot springs are worth the detour. Virginians prefer total immersion, especially if Mr. Jefferson did it.